How to Choose what Lightening Service is Best for You: A Guide
Successful hair lightening requires knowledge of best practices, the process involved, and awareness of hair health damage issues.
The Hair Health Challenge When Highlighting Your Hair
Today it is fairly common knowledge that using bleach to lighten hair has potentially significant hair damage risks. There is no way to lighten your hair and keep the same health as when it wasn’t lightened. With that said, that’s why its super important to take it seriously . Specifically, when lightening or bleaching your hair. This is because we are always creating some form of damage in the chemical process.
What are the Main Problems and Issues with Hair Lightening?
My customer experience and industry training for the last 10 years behind the chair at Assembly Hair + Beauty Bar in Cincinnati is important. Our experience provides a clear picture of the 5 reasons for these concerns:
1. Amount Lightened: Either hair has been lightened or bleached too much or not enough
2. Tone is Off: Not the tone of highlights you were looking for in your vision
3. Hair Damage: Hair has become very dry or brittle
4. Too Much Gold or Orange: When lightened or bleached to a brassy level of blonde (has more gold or orange coloration to hair when said and done)
5. Too Much Lightened: Too many hairs were lightened or bleached or not enough hairs on the head have been lightened or bleached
What Motivates Hair Lightening?
There are 5 reasons we see most commonly when a hair lightening, highlighting, or bleaching service is requested.
1. Women who may have originally had light hair when they were kids find their natural hair color darkening with age
2. Styles and hair trends change, and it is common for women to look for something new or fun
3. Having a less than satisfactory lightening experience with a recent salon service. The highlights may appear too light or too orange or brassy.
4. The desire to look younger. Right or wrong there is a widely shared desire to look younger. Think about skin care products promising a youthful look. Your hair is part of this process of looking and feeling youthful.
5. When a guest wants vibrancy and high pops or contrasting color bleach or lightener is typically involved.
When any of these motives come up they are usually accompanied by negative feelings and concerns. Frustration with current hair that may not appear as one desires. Potential hair damage concerns and worries or the sense you are not keeping up with styles and trends.
The information provided to you here will address three key areas.
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An Overview of Hair Lightening
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A review of the Common Issues and Hair Health from Hair Lightening
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What are the Best Steps for Hair Lightening
Understanding the Process and Types of Lightening Hair Overview
First, let’s get a clear definition about lightening or bleaching the hair.
Hair lightener, also known as hair bleach, works by breaking down the natural pigment or melanin in hair strands. Melanin is responsible for the color of our hair. Hair lightener uses a chemical process to break it down and remove it.
The active ingredient in most hair lighteners is hydrogen peroxide. The stylists mixes this with either potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, or sodium persulfate. A problem occurs when someone mixes and applies hydrogen peroxide with a persulfate to the hair. It then releases oxygen molecules that react with the melanin in the hair. This reaction breaks down the melanin by essentially poking holes through it. this causes the hair to lighten in color.
You can apply Hair lightener in different strengths and volumes. This depends on how much lift or lightening you desire and the hair we are working on. A higher volume developer will lift faster. This breaks down natural melanin or previously colored hair.) This can also cause more damage.
It’s important to use a hair lightener or bleach that is appropriate for your hair type. You need to follow the instructions carefully to avoid damaging your hair.
When we lighten or bleach the hair we expose what what we call underlying pigment. is.These tones are all “warm”. The start with shades of brick red all the way up to pale yellow depending on the hair we are working on.
It’’s important to note that hair lightener can be damaging to hair. It is permanent and irreversible, especially when used improperly or too frequently. Its best to have a professional stylist apply hair lightener. this will minimize the risk of damage and achieve the best results.
The operative word here is “permanent” and “irreversible”. That is why it is so critical to understand the highlighting process.
Since the hair lightening process involves using bleach or color or lightener. The goal is to change the hair to your desired shade with as little damage as possible and to use proper aftercare steps. The total amount of hair that you lightened is the determining factor. This allows for pinpointing the type of maintenance needed.
What are the Different Types of Hair Lightening Techniques Used in a Salon
The terminology used to describe the various types of hair lightening can be confusing at times. Much of the descriptions are simply for marketing and/or trying to describe how we are placing in the lightened or bleached hairs.
There are 3 main techniques used to place lightened pieces in hair
Highlights:
Highlights refer to a technique in which you lighten strands of hair from root to the ends. You accomplish this by specific sectioning pattern. the hairstylist intentionally leave some natural hair in between each foil. You can do this in various ways and none be right or wrong.
Some hairstylists use caps to create a more organic lightening or bleaching . Some do a more methodical method . This has a pattern and more strategy behind lightener placement.
The stylist is always trying to create an effortless look. They accomplish this by of making some hairs lightened while leaving other hairs out.
You can apply this technique in many ways with various end goals in mind. The amount that gets lightened versus not depends on guests end goal of over all look. I often think of how we highlight a word on a page to make it stand out when I am highlighting the hair. I want the pieces I separate to lighten to stand out in that same manor.
Babylights:
Babylights, teasy lights, and any other form of foiling are still considered highlights.
We are a super creative bunch constantly learning, growing, and perfecting our techniques. This allows us to create the looks guests are wanting in our chair. It’s best to have inspiration photos and a thorough consultation. This lets the stylist choose the technique to get you to your end goal.
Balayage:
The popular “balayage” technique is a hair lightening or bleaching service. The hairstylist uses a “freehand sweeping” motion of color or lightener/bleach. This is applied down the hair shaft. The use of foils for this method is not involved to encapsulate the hair.
The goal is to achieve a more natural blending of the various hair strands. The hair can only get so light when free hand painting outside of a foil. This keeps the hair in a “family of color” and a way to not over lighten the hair. Looks sun-kissed in the end. Typically a hair stylist can create a warm end finish
What is the difference between hair highlights and the balayage method?
The basic comparison describes highlights using a foil to process to achieve max lightness. While balayage is an artistic “hand-painted” technique without foils.
Both techniques can create a beautiful look. This look can be very similar (some are so amazing they can look exactly the same). It all starts with knowing the canvas you are working. Also, clear communication about desired end look. You will find either technique applied to most lengths of hair. Make sure that during your consultation be sure to check in about your expectations.
Global Blonding
This is an all over bleaching or lightening services. This is a service that takes a long time and changes every hair on the head. When the stylist does this they need to use caution at the next level. When this type of service grows back in it typically grows in the harshest.
Our Story
Anytime we color every single hair on the head we are creating more maintenance. This is a dramatic change and leaves the hair dry. Perfect for someone wanting more volume to hair all over:)
Type
Resulting Appearance
Method
BALAYAGE
GLOBAL BLONDING
HIGHLIGHTS
Hand painting technique. Applied to hair not encapsulated in foil. Painted on top of sections not saturated through for softer appearance.
Hair placed in a foil and lightened. Foil encapsulates hair & avoids touching other hairs not lightened or bleached.
A lightening or bleaching service where every hair on the head is lightened or bleached lighter than it's current level.
The appearance can look many different ways depending on how it is placed on the client and how much. Typically looks
sun-kissed in tonal finish.
Has many ways it can look depending on placement on the head and how many. Can achieve max lightness from most heads of hair with this technique.
All over lighter look. This lightening service typically grows out the harshest and needs most maintenance but can take hair to an all over lighter look.
Characteristics of 3 Techniques for Hair Lightening
Assembly Hair + Beauty Bar | Cincinnati, Ohio
A Review of the Common Issues and Hair Health from Hair Lightening
Damaged Hair Needs Attention to Achieve Healthy Hair
When you discover any sign of hair damage from lightening or coloring your hair you need to act. Seek professional advice. You may find the hair has a negative reaction to some form of bleaching. I may not look healthy, this indicates damage has occurred at the “structural level”.
To save the hair from more damage involves considerable work. In most cases the best solution is to treat the lightened and bleached hair. Use a deep conditioning and protein products. As well as get healthy trims/haircuts depending on your look and length of hair.
How do you know if bleaching or lightening damaged your hair from bleaching or lightening?
Our Story
If you believe you have any of these issues or concerns it is important to take action. See a hair salon professional stylist to assess your hairs condition and recommend treatments where needed.
Set Realistic Hair Lightening Objectives for Your Unique Needs
It is important to discuss your vision and goal for lightening service. A hairstylist will be able to provide a professional opinion. They will openly discuss how realistic goals you have for your hair. This depends your hair and the time it will take. And the stylist will hopefully tell you what they can and cannot do.
Once you select the service the timetable for getting your hair coloring completed begins. You may need to start with “demineralizing treatments”.
A service referred to as color-prepping treatment may be necessary to start the process. Color-porepping is a type of insurance for us as professionals. It helps to provide assurance that our chemicals are not reacting with chemicals currently living on your hair. These chemicals result from the minerals in our water to the products we use to style each day.
After prepping the hair is when its best to start the lightening process. No matter what this dries the hair out and needs product to help keep looking fresh long term.
Determining how much of your hair you want lightened is important during the consultation. Ending with a fresh haircut suited to your styling needs would be a good place to from start or finish.
The hairstylist will recommend maintenance services to continue your journey to your best hair. When lightening your hair, you must expect to maintenance in the salon and at home. Maintenance can take on many different looks.
This depends on what services the stylist performs and what best suits your lifestyle. Your hairstylist should recommend at-home care plan with products for the best results.
Schedule a Consultation with a Salon and Qualified Hairstylist
The steps to select a salon hair stylist in your area is the best approach. You can get referrals from others who can recommend these resources based on their success with providers. Today it is easy to use an online search and social media for reviews and testimonials.
Once you have selected your salon hair provider a scheduled consultation is the next action. My experience has proven time and again the value of open communication and collaboration in planning for a successful hair service result.
Summary
The wide popularity of hair lightening or bleaching and coloring services continue to grow. You need to keep yourself informed regarding the potential risks and damage. Combined with the proper steps to achieve a successful result is your best assurance. If you invest a little time in planning and research you have taken a big step in the right direction.
We understand this can be tough and frustrating. We can’t stress enough to find the best fit for you before getting services done.
Cincinnati Hair Lightening | Are You In Cincinnati?
Our Story
Do you live in the greater Cincinnati area? If so, you will find Assembly Hair + Beauty Bar salon centrally located in the Hyde Park area. Assembly provides professional lightening services, haircuts, nails, treatments, and so much more!
You can take advantage of our experience . We provide a thorough assessment of your needs. We offer a range of the top types of services for hair lightening. This includes our guest consultation process. It is definately worth your time and investment. It provides the best avenue for success.
When you book a consultation or hair service at Assembly we provide a professional needs review. This sets the stage to collaborate on your goals and vision. There are many hair lightening techniques to choose from based off of the guest in our chair at the time. Our open consultation assures you of the best opportunity for satisfaction.
About Emily Witko
Founder Assembly Hair + Beauty Bar, Cincinnati, Ohio
Emily Witko is the owner of Assembly Hair + Beauty Bar salon in Cincinnati. She has 10 years of working behind the chair with guests and has a wide range of professional experience in many salon atmospheres. Emily’s passion began with color theory and a complete understanding of the hair strand. Traveling extensively for advanced education in the beauty industry including Lisa Hart Walker classes, Sassoon Academy in Santa Monica, and so much more.
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Type
Resulting Appearance
Method
BALAYAGE
GLOBAL BLONDING
HIGHLIGHTS
Hand painting technique. Applied to hair not encapsulated in foil. Painted on top of sections not saturated through for softer appearance.
Hair placed in a foil and lightened. Foil encapsulates hair & avoids touching other hairs not lightened or bleached.
A lightening or bleaching service where every hair on the head is lightened or bleached lighter than it's current level.
The appearance can look many different ways depending on how it is placed on the client and how much. Typically looks
sun-kissed in tonal finish.
Has many ways it can look depending on placement on the head and how many. Can achieve max lightness from most heads of hair with this technique.
All over lighter look. This lightening service typically grows out the harshest and needs most maintenance but can take hair to an all over lighter look.